How to build a Log House-Part 3
Foundation Lesson 3 (Perimeter Foundation & Full Basement Foundation)
This article on how to build a Log House-Part 3 is the last part of the session, which deals on the subject on how to build a Log House in totality from the foundation to the roof.
- It can be made of concrete, concrete blocks or concrete faced with stones.
- If made of concrete it can be Single pour and Double Pour (footing and foundation).
Single Pour Footing/Foundation:
- It’s not used as much as the separately poured footing and foundation.
- However it simplifies the task and cut down on time.
- Lay out the outside dimensions of the footings, the wall thickness and outside boundary of the wall on the batter boards using the house floor plan.
- Then position the builder’s string to show the dimensions.
- Excavate the footing and construct the forms.
- Bring All Service pipes in below the footing and frost line before pouring the footing.
- Make sure any low spots under the edge of the footing are filled with stones
Double Pour Footing/Foundation:
- The footing is usually poured separately from the foundation.
- If the soil is stable, the footing is poured directly in a trench dug without forms.
- If the soil is less stable, forms must be constructed to hold the concrete in place.
- The forms must be leveled by using the carpenter’s level and stones are used to fill up the holes around the form to keep the concrete from running out
- If pouring without forms drive small wooden stakes into the soil at the bottom of the trench where their tops should be level with the height of the footing.
- Pour the concrete and smooth more or less to the height of the stakes then pull the stakes out and fill the holes with concrete and smooth over.
- Form a key in the footing to help hold the concrete foundation in place and it can be done by using a beveled 2”x4”. However in the tropical countries water stop is need to be added to prevent water seepage.
- Reinforce the footing with two to three reinforcing bars spaced about 3”-4” off the bottom of the trench.
- Make an inspection after the form for the footings are completed.
Pouring the Foundation for the House Plan:
- After the footing has cured for 5-6 days the foundation can be formed.
- Remove the footings forms and construct the form for the foundation.
- Individual sections of forms should be nailed together from the outside.
- Set up the outside forms first and level it by using the carpenter level and then do the same on the inside forms.
- Higher and larger foundation walls should be poured slowly to allow the concrete enough time to set up.
- Basement foundation has the same fundamentals of the perimeter foundation however its has additional features such as:
- Foundation drains.
- Insulating the basement.
- Basement floor.
Foundation Drain & Basement Insulation:
- A drain should be placed around the foundation to help carry off excess water that collects at its base.
- Put a 2” layer of gravel around the outside of the bottom edge of the footing.
- Then put clay drainage tile or perforated plastic on top of this around the outside of the footing.
- Throw from 2”-6” of gravel over the clay drainage to extend it up over the top edge of the footing by at least 2”.
- If you need insulation for the basement, install 4” thick batts of rigid foam with moisture barrier below the concrete floor and on the gravel. It can be installed on the outside of the foundation wall as well.
Basement Foundation Floor:
- Usually poured after the foundation forms are removed.
- Before pouring the floor first position the drain as needed.
- The floor drain should be ½” below the surface of the finished concrete floor.
- Pouring basement floor should be done with a fast pace to prevent the concrete from setting up before you can get it all finished.
- Check out for some great Log House Floor Plans at :